Seeking recommendations for light grey primer

[Imaginos]

I'm looking for some recommendations for a light gray primer. I have been using Krylon gray, but it is too dark for my taste. I'd like a lighter tone. Any recommendations, maybe with pictures that show the tint? I want to maximize quality of the primer and minimize price at the same time.

Thanks!

[Ironhide]

Spray or brush on?

[Imaginos]

Spray. I've never used brush on primer. I assume it covers more detail, or is that just assuming?

[YoungWolf777]

Brush on doesn't actually bond with the metal/plastic so it's more prone to wear & chipping. I always use spray.

For gray Krylon is the best for cost/quality ratio. Dupli-color is best on quality, but also more expensive. There aren't any that are lighter in tone that I'm aware of. You could try a light dusting of white primer over your Krylon gray to lighten it a bit.

[Imaginos]

Following up on this with another question, a real lazy question - if I wanted to prime over a painted/sealed miniature, should I simple green it? If the previous paint/seal doesn't look like it covers detail, do you think I'd be safe to just prime over?

[YoungWolf777]

I'll always strip down to the bare metal/plastic if I can. It may not look like you're losing detail, but add on a primer coat and then a few more coats of paint and pretty soon you're looking like Plasticman in the oven...

[Imaginos]

That's what I was afraid of. Oh well, now to pick up a bottle of simple green.

[Ironhide]

Spray. I've never used brush on primer. I assume it covers more detail, or is that just assuming?

That's assuming. I've globbed models with brush-on black gesso, and it dried perfect showing all the details.

Brush on doesn't actually bond with the metal/plastic so it's more prone to wear & chipping. I always use spray.

That's why you use a sealer. It's also not necessarily a bad thing. What if your painting skills improve and you want to repaint the models to a better quality? At least with brush on gesso/primer you can get the model back down to bare plastic/metal.

[YoungWolf777]

Spray. I've never used brush on primer. I assume it covers more detail, or is that just assuming?

That's assuming. I've globbed models with brush-on black gesso, and it dried perfect showing all the details.

Brush on doesn't actually bond with the metal/plastic so it's more prone to wear & chipping. I always use spray.

That's why you use a sealer. It's also not necessarily a bad thing. What if your painting skills improve and you want to repaint the models to a better quality? At least with brush on gesso/primer you can get the model back down to bare plastic/metal.

Even with 3~4 coats of great sealer non-bonded primer will lose adhesion much easier than bonded primer. Think of it like this: you pour 2 concrete slabs. 1 is on a sandy soil, the other on properly compacted soil. The concrete is the same, but which is going to break/crack/slide first?

To each their own. I merely speak from my own personal experience and research. I've stripped my own models down to bare metal on multiple occasions. Just because the primer bonds (etches) to the metal doesn't mean that it is permanent and can't be broken. Castrol Super Clean / Simple Green work just fine.

[Stanislav]

Just my opinion, but if Youngwolf says it...it must be so.

I've heard of a lot of people using the gesso/brush-on, and it seems to be picking up quite a following.

However, Castrol Super Clean/Purple Power/Simple Green remove all doubt (and paint).

My personal mix for stripping models is Purple Power soaked for a couple of days with a scrub brush afterwards, and for metal models a bath in acetone (safety first in handling that stuff!) after the Purple Power. Only reason I bring that up is that I have traded and got some gummed up models just from primer, and the combination works down to bare metal.

Rich

[Imaginos]

I've seen Simple Green and it runs about $11 a bottle IIRC. How much does Purple Power run?

[Ironhide]

Castrol Super Clean / Simple Green work just fine.

On metal, I agree. On plastic, not so much. Especially if you are using Krylon. Some of their brands actually bond to plastic, and no amount of soaking or scrubbing will get it off.

[Imaginos]

I'm looking at working on strictly metal Warmachine / Hordes minis. So I'm not so worried about a cleaner that will damage plastic.

[Stanislav]

Purple Power is the cheap equivalent to Castrol Super Clean. You gotta wear gloves! Dishwashing gloves are fine. It's cheaper by far than CSC or SG. Purple Power at Wal-Mart is less than $5 for a gallon (antifreeze sized container). You can find it in the automotive department with all of the cleaners and waxes (it's a degreaser).

Simple Green takes a little longer in my opinion, but does work. And you don't need the gloves (still never a bad choice). However, if you go that route, buy the bigger concentated jugs at Lowes or Home Depot. The bottles at Wal-Mart don't give you enough bang for the buck.

Hope it helps.

Rich

[Imaginos]

So after using Purple Power or CSC, do you soak them again in water or anything to make sure the PP is off the model? Do you wash them in soap & water after that?