stripping....? plastic???

[H W Raney]

Just three minor things to add:
First, a lot of what's being proposed is rather hard on the skin or lungs. Good ventilation and proabaly latex gloves would be a good idea.
Second and third: a good stiff toothbrush and some sort of pick (old dental tools are my favourite) to knock the more stubborn paint out of crevises.
Of course one could just paint over the exisitng coat(s) and try to claim a +1 on armour rolls.

[JohnHwangBT]

FWIW, I personally prime with Rustoleum automotive primer.

But I've gotten lots of other stuff primed with other stuff (assume GW for the black primed stuff).

[MagickalMemories]

@ MM : Weren't we working on a sticky for a tutorial for stripping plastic? I thought I sent you a write up and some pics. but maybe I didn't

Art

Now that you mention it, Art, I recall discussing it with you.
I occasionally have to go through and clean out my inbox, due to the # of PMs I get, but I don't recall coming across a PM from you.

Hopefully, now that I have the ability to create new forums LOL, we'll have that Article Forum soon.


Eric

[Norseman]

I am a little lucky in the way of solvents. My Father manages a Body shop(Automotive not perfume) I use a Industrial Gun Wash (used for cleaning paint guns) to strip my metals...works in like 5 min. Completely clean, however it will sometimes actually take the finish off of a pewter mini making it a little pores, I actually like the effect. but that is only if it stays in there a month and only for some models. If you can get it probably the best chem you can get to do the job. Break cleaner works well for plastics. Just cant have them in there for too long.

I personally use a Canadian Tire Brand (Walmart) Contractor Grade Enamel Flat Black or Flat White Spray paint for priming, it's like $2.50 a can and works better than any other type of spray paint that I have used, including the expensive Rustoleums and hobby primers. It's very thin and opaque. It requires a few coats on all the different angles but it really takes GW paint and inks very well.

[Ironhide]

Anyone have rough idea on how long to leave plastics in brake fluid? I know how long is too long!

[orctez]

With superclean you can leave plastic in for a week, no worries. don't know about brake fluid though. Gotta go with the purple stuff!

My goto List

Stripping Minis: Superclean $10 a gallon at walmart
Primer: Krylon grey primer $3-$4 at walmart
Clear coat: Krylon Matte finish $3-$4 at walmart

All inexpensive all work well for me

[carypearson]

I have to 2nd the Pine Sol method.

Strips those pesky Testor's enamels without issue. And I have never had a problem with plastics in PineSol.

Never bothered with SimpleGreen.

I did the Castrol SuperClean back in the day when in came in multiple strenghs. The extra strength was really Fume - y. Switched to Pine-Sol and never looked back...BTW don't buy the cheapo store brand...it has no Pine Oil in it (which is the solvent portion).

[JohnHwangBT]

FWIW, this week, I fished out a plastic SM that has been soaking in CSC for at least 3 months without any ill effect.

I left him in because I was hoping that he was super-glued (like the rest), and would fall apart.

Apparently, he was plastic-glued, so no such luck.

[Deathklaat]

Pine-Sol will soften plastics, i know because i have a squad of CSM Bezerkers that look like the joined Khorne and then switched to Nurgle. SImple Green slightly softens plastics but Purple Power does n wrong, and it works faster too.

[BITZJUNKIE]

(understandably, some of this has already been stated in this thread, but I'm lazy today and just clipped what I mentioned on dakka... )

Hey Spencer!

For cleaning most plastics:
Super Clean all the way!!! I won't buy anything plastic that was painted with enamels, so I can't be of any help there...

You'll be able to reuse it a few times after each set of minis that are cleaned. Pour some new Super Clean in the cleaning container after the 4th or so time it is used. ALWAYS use heavy duty gloves with this stuff as it will make hands relatively numb and "plastic-y" feeling for a COUPLE of weeks at the very least. Leave those gloves stored inside out and let then dry outside before storing them as well.

Get a good plastic container to pour the Super Clean into. Ziploc makes them with twist-on, screw tight lids that run about $3 for a set of 2-3. I highly recommend those instead of the thinner "pop" lid containers... when they are full of Super Clean and you have to pop the lid off, it tends to splash.

As has been said B4, I'll echo here - the longer the soak, the better for me. I leave mine for about a week OR MORE. I'll have 2-4 tubs going at the same time and even a rubbermaid plastic shoebox going for landriader-sized models. Feel free to use toothpicks to remove stubborn build-up spots (thanks Dan for the tip!). I've had no problem with softening.

Use an electric toothbrush too. It'll save on your hands and wrists when you have more than a handfull to clean.

Simple Green, Pine Sol, Brake Fluid and Oven Cleaner (oh my!):
Simple green and Pine Sol have been used as well and tend to take a little longer, but will be piney fresh! As Deathklaat said, Pine Sol WILL mess up plastics if you cook them too long.

Although I just can't do it, I've heard of oven cleaner being used too . Just use it outside and use Heavy Duty gloves again!! I heard that brake fluid will work as well and I have tried it, but it worked INCREDIBLY slow for me.

If you are cleaning metal:
I go acetone all the way. Use gloves and be in a VERY WELL ventilated area. Soak for a few days if possible and be sure to check the container for loose bitz as the acetone WILL eat away at any glued areas!

[sumrandomaddy]

thanks alot all of you guys! i really appreciate the help all you b towners hav provided!

just an update, i put the serpents into a mix of sc and sink unclgger, its working well already...

oh crap, i did get some on my as i lay dying shirt, should i wash it? (ya ill be wearing play clothes from now on)

also just a reminder, my youtube showcase of my eldar army will be up soon, so stay tuned (yes to all btowners who sold me eldar- you WILL be getting a shoutout!)

[BITZJUNKIE]

Anyone have rough idea on how long to leave plastics in brake fluid? I know how long is too long!

I can check tonight Ironhide. I have a poor, lonely missile marine soaking at home. It's been about 8 or 9 months... I keep forgetting he's there .

[Tarius]

I have used brake fluid plenty and it works fairly well. You can leave models in the brake fluid for a couple days before it begins to soften the plastic a bit. It will soften the plastic some, but will not melt it or anything, I do not know what would happen if you left the models in there for more then a couple weeks as I have only left mine in several days without any adverse effect.

I find that if the paint wont come off very well after a few days, brake fluid is not going to do it, which is when some scraping is applied, very crefully anyway.

I did once try using paint thinner on a plastic model once, left him in 5 minutes and it took the outer layer of paint off with no bad effects on the model itself(at least that I can remember) so dont go trying this andt hen get angry if you forget the model is in there or something.