Help! New to plastic model assembly/finishing

Galley · Post by **Galley** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:43 pm

I'm pretty new to Warhammer, and especially new to model assembly. Here's my problem. I've got some metal and plastic figures to assemble, and I've done pretty well with the metal pieces. I have the standard 3 metal file kit from GW (circle, triangle, flat), and I've been pretty happy with how everything has come together for the metal ones.

Now that I'm onto the plastic, things aren't fun. It seems that every time I try to smooth out seems or nubs, I just scratch the hell out of the model.
I thought about finding a fine-grain sandpaper piece, but I can't rationalize how that wouldn't scratch it up just as much either.

I'm not looking to make perfect figures to start, but I'd like to be able to have something somewhat nice looking at least. I'm really just trying to get them assembled and primed so I can at least use them.

Any advice and/or links?

Thanks kindly.

Lormax · Post by **Lormax** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:17 pm

Get yourself an xacto knife to clean up the plastic models

( 196 ) · Post by **oaflord** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:29 pm

Agreed, there are some fine files out there as well, but for plastic the edge of a knife is best.

ancientsociety · Post by **ancientsociety** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:37 pm

Hmmm, I can't imagine why you're scratching up your plastic models? Do you mean you use the files on them? I've never used GW files so I have no idea how good they are.

In any case, welcome to the hobby! My first word of advice: stop buying GW "hobby" tools. Seriously, they are WAY overpriced and not great quality for the inflation.

I'll assume you have a hobby shop somewhere close to where you live. If you have an afternoon, duck in and look have a look around. The basis for wargaming modeling and painting all starting with techniques honed by railroaders and modelers. A good alternative is a well-stocked art supply store (Blick is pretty good). If you're looking for hobby tools, Xacto, Excel, and a few other companies produce very good products. Stay away from the Testors brand though - they're just as bad as GW. You're looking for a set of "jeweler" files.

You might also consider investing in a Dremel - one that's cordless and is multispeed from 5000RPM+ (you won't be going over 8000-10000RPM anyway). Most, like a Dremel Minimate, sell for about $50 for a kit with all the tools you need.

Anyway, here's my process from start to finish:
1: Clean sprues/metal minis in very warm (almost hot), soapy water and rinse (this removes the mold release agent)
2: Remove minis from sprues (I recommend using Xacto snips for this rather than an Xacto knife - much faster and safer)
3: Clean flash/moldlines/etc. with jeweler files and Xacto knife
4: Assemble mini (CA glue for metal, plastic cement for plastic)
5: Mount mini on the head of a large nail (if non-slotta or scenic based. this makes it easier to hold while painting) OR
5a: Clean base, add base materials (if any), glue mini, fill slot with GS, mount on head of nail
6: (optional) Clean mini in warm soapy water and rinse (this removes the oils from your skin)
7: Prime (I use Krylon Grey Primer - cheap, quick, and if applied in small coats non-obscuring to details)
8: Paint

bluetablepainting · Post by **bluetablepainting** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 12:50 am

Forgive me, Mr. Curmudgeon, but I disagree with the dremel suggestion.

Until you are comfortable holding a mini and the modelling tools, stay away from dremels. A bad run with one can ruin a mini for an inexperienced modeller.

That being said...

WELCOME TO THE ACCITIO... err... HOBBY!

I suggest an Xacto knife for flash lines and clippers for the "nubs."
GW (style) clippers are best.
Use the clippers to remove them from the sprues.
Use the Xact to remove the flash lines.

IMPORTANT NOTE TO AVOID RUINING YOUR MODELS

When removing lines from models with an Xacto knife, it is important to remember HOW to use the knife for this purpose.

Hold the knife against the model with the blade on the flash line... hold the knife at an angle. Drag the knife in the direction the blade is NOT facing. This should be a PULLING motion (as the blade edge shouldn't be facing you), NOT a PUSHING motion. If you push the edge of the blade, it will dig into your model & leave gouge marks.

All that being said, I REALLY like to use my file set on plastic. I have the 9 file set (of something like that) and they get it really smooth.

Eric

P.S. If you have a local GW store, take your tools & models in & ask a staff member to show you the best way to assemble & clean the plastic. GW Customer Service IN STORE has always been exemplary in my experience. If not, your local hobby/game store or a railrioading/modelling shop might be able to show you. Failing that, try to find an experienced adult gamer at your local game store. if he's not an absolute jerk (and you aren't, either), he'll be HAPPY to show you the ropes.

( 196 ) · Post by **oaflord** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 9:50 pm

bluetablepainting wrote:Hold the knife against the model with the blade on the flash line... hold the knife at an angle. Drag the knife in the direction the blade is NOT facing. This should be a PULLING motion (as the blade edge shouldn't be facing you), NOT a PUSHING motion. If you push the edge of the blade, it will dig into your model & leave gouge marks.

Preach it brother, I still remember the first time I PUSHED instead of PULLED...I was not a happy camper. Good thing it was only a rank and file and not a front row model...

MEDEVL · Post by **MEDEVL** » Sun Jan 07, 2007 10:32 pm

Eric hit the nail on the head for the most important basic hobby knife method. The pull not the push. You can scrape over an area several times until it's the way you want it. I use those snap blade razor knives the most but lots of folks prefer Xacto knives. Keep the blades sharp for best results. To buy them I'd watch Hobby Lobby (they usually have 40% off coupons online) and get yourself some good tools there. The clippers I use are much samller than most but the best ones I ever had were for computer stuff, they had a slimmer profile and thus were easier to fit into those sprue frames. IMPORTANT: NEVER use your plastic clippers on metal!!!!!!! Get a diferent pair for metal tabs, pins etc.